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Pencil-crayon triptych view of a raised garden bed across three seasons: spring with pea trellis and brassica seedlings, summer with tomatoes and pole beans, fall with cabbage and garlic being planted
Peter Vogel

Peter Vogel

Peter Vogel is the founder of GrowPerma, bringing together evidence-based gardening advice with permaculture principles. When he's not writing about companion ...

Companion Planting May 15, 2026

Companion Planting by Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Combos

The companion planting pairings that work for tomatoes in July do not work for cabbage in April. The soil is colder, the pests are different, and half your summer favourites cannot germinate yet. This is why most generic companion planting charts confuse new gardeners: they list everything in one big block without telling you what season it actually applies to.

This guide gives you the working pairings for spring, summer, and fall, with the soil temperature thresholds, the pest pressure each season actually faces, and the rotation pattern that connects one season to the next in the same bed. If you have come from our companion planting chart, this is the seasonal layer on top of it.

Pencil-crayon triptych view of a raised garden bed across three seasons: spring with pea trellis and brassica seedlings, summer with tomatoes and pole beans, fall with cabbage and garlic being planted

40-50 F

spring soil germination

Iowa State Extension

65 F+

summer soil minimum

Penn State Extension

6-8 wks

garlic before ground freeze

UMN Extension

3 yrs

family rotation cycle

Penn State Extension

The Quick Map of the Three Seasons

Pencil-crayon infographic with three columns labelled spring, summer, fall showing companion pairings for each season: pea and carrot, lettuce and radish, broccoli and onion, tomato and basil and marigold, corn pole bean and squash, pepper and basil, cabbage and dill, kale and scallion, garlic and cover crop

Penn State Extension draws the basic line: cool-season crops germinate at soil temperatures of 40 to 50 F and grow best between 50 and 70 F. Warm-season crops want 65 F+ soil and stall below 60 F. The Weekend Gardener's calendar runs three working windows:

SeasonSoil tempWindowHeadline crops
Spring40 to 60 F4 to 6 weeks before last frost to about 2 weeks afterPeas, lettuce, spinach, radish, brassicas, onions, beets
Summer65 to 85 F2 weeks after last frost to 8 weeks before first frostTomato, pepper, eggplant, corn, beans, squash, cucumber
Fall50 to 65 F8 weeks before first frost to 2 weeks afterCabbage, kale, lettuce, garlic (overwintering), radish, swiss chard

Sources: Penn State Extension, Cool-season vs Warm-season Vegetables, Iowa State Extension, Soil Temperature and Planting Conditions for Spring, UMD Extension, Vegetable Planting Calendar.

Key Takeaway

Companion planting changes with soil temperature. Spring pairs cool-tolerant crops (peas, lettuce, brassicas, radish) that share the bed for 8 to 12 weeks before warm-season crops arrive. Summer pairs heat-loving crops (tomato, pepper, corn) the summer-specific heat-loving plant combos with aromatic herbs and trap-crop flowers. Fall pairs frost-tolerant crops (cabbage, kale, garlic) with cover crops and overwintering alliums. Each season has its own pairings, its own pests, and its own rotation logic. Mix the seasons and the crops fail.

Spring Companions: Cool Soil, Fast Crops

Top-down view of a spring vegetable bed in early May with pea seedlings climbing a teepee trellis, rows of lettuce, radish and spinach, broccoli transplants under floating row cover

Spring is the easiest season for new companion planters because the crops grow fast, mature on overlapping schedules, and clear the bed before summer crops need the space. The catch is timing: match the pairing to the actual soil temperature, not to the calendar date. Buy a soil thermometer and check the top 4 inches at 9 am.

PairingWhy it works
Peas + carrotsPeas climb the trellis fast; carrots fill the soil around the trellis base. Different root depths, no competition.
Peas + spinachBoth thrive in pre-frost cool soil. Peas fix nitrogen; spinach uses it. Solara companion guide.
Lettuce + radishRadish matures in 3 to 4 weeks and clears space before lettuce hits full size. Classic succession pairing.
Broccoli + onion / garlicAllium sulfur volatiles deter cabbage moth from brassicas. See what to plant with broccoli and brassicas.
Cabbage + dill / chamomileFlat-flower herbs feed parasitoid wasps that lay eggs in cabbage worms.
Beet + bush beanBeans fix nitrogen for the heavy-feeder beet; non-overlapping nutrient demand.
Spinach + strawberryStrawberry leaves shade emerging spinach in late spring; spinach is harvested before strawberry runners spread.

Sources: Cornell Cooperative Extension, Cool Season Vegetables (PDF), UMN Extension Companion Planting, University of Delaware Extension, The New Companion Planting.

The spring rule of thumb: every bed should pair one fast crop (radish, lettuce, spinach) with one slow crop (broccoli, cabbage, kale, carrot, beet). The fast crop is out before the slow crop reaches full size, doubling the bed's effective yield in the same season. For a fuller spring walk-through, see our existing spring companion planting guide.

Summer Companions: Warm Soil, Heavy Yields

Top-down view of a midsummer vegetable bed in July with ripening tomatoes staked alongside basil and marigolds, climbing pole beans on a teepee, broad squash leaves, and peppers in the background

Summer is the high-yield season but also the high-pest-pressure season. Aphids, cabbage worms, squash bugs, hornworms, flea beetles, and Japanese beetles all hit at once. The aromatic herb companions and trap-crop flowers earn their place here.

PairingWhy it works
Tomato + basil + marigoldBasil masks tomato volatiles and primes wound response. Marigold suppresses soil nematodes. Gardenia, UMN Extension.
Pepper + basil + parsleyVolatile-masking herbs deter aphids and pollinator attraction at flowering.
Three Sisters (corn + pole bean + winter squash)The peer-reviewed polyculture. People and Nature 2024 yield study, Cornell Three Sisters guide. See our companion planting corn deep dive.
Cucumber + dill + nasturtiumDill attracts cucumber-beetle predators; nasturtium acts as squash-bug trap crop.
Squash + nasturtium + radishNasturtium pulls squash bugs; radish deters squash vine borer at the stem base.
Eggplant + basil + thymeAromatic deterrent against flea beetle and Colorado potato beetle.
Lettuce + tomato (interplanted in shade)Tall tomato shades lettuce, extending lettuce season into early summer.

Sources: People and Nature, Three Sisters yield study (peer-reviewed, 2024), PMC5746795, Companion Plants for Aphid Pest Management, PubMed 27860184, Calendula as a floral resource.

Why This Works: Niche Stacking in Summer Beds

A well-planned summer bed packs three vertical layers and at least two ecological roles in every square foot. Pole beans climb the tomato cage, basil tucks into the gaps at mid-height, marigold and nasturtium cover the soil at knee height, and the whole bed feeds pollinators. The cabbage white butterfly cannot smell your tomatoes through the basil, the aphids land on the nasturtium instead of the eggplant, and the parasitoid wasps from the dill flowers feed on whatever pest larvae survive the first wave. This is the same niche-complementarity principle that drives the Three Sisters polyculture; you are just running it at a smaller scale.

Pairings to Avoid in Summer

AvoidWhy
Tomato + fennelFennel allelopathy suppresses tomato and most other vegetables. Plant fennel in its own pot at least 10 feet away.
Beans + onion / garlic / chiveAllium sulfur compounds suppress nitrogen-fixing rhizobia in bean roots. Plant beans away from alliums.
Tomato + potatoBoth nightshades; share early blight and Colorado potato beetle. Plant in separate beds.
Cucumber + sageSage volatiles suppress cucumber growth at close range.

Sources: Gardenia, Do NOT Grow These Plants Together, Penn State Extension, Plant Rotation by Plant Families.

Fall Companions: Cool Soil Returning, Overwintering Starts

Top-down view of a fall vegetable bed in late September with mature cabbage heads, curly kale, swiss chard, rows of garlic cloves just planted, and winter rye cover crop sprouting

Fall is the season most gardeners give up too early on. Penn State Extension's season extenders guide documents that frost-tolerant brassicas (cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts), root crops (carrot, beet, parsnip), and overwintering alliums (garlic, shallot) can produce well into November and December in much of the US, especially with a row cover.

PairingWhy it works
Cabbage + dill / chamomileFlat-flower herbs feed parasitoid wasps that target late-season cabbage worm pulses.
Kale + scallion / leekAllium volatiles deter cabbage moth from kale.
Lettuce + radish (succession)Fast radish clears space for late-season lettuce in cooling soil.
Garlic + cover crop (winter rye / clover)Garlic planted late October to early November overwinters under or beside cover crop biomass. See companion planting mint for related allium uses.
Carrot + onion / leekAllium volatiles deter carrot fly through the fall harvest window.
Spinach + winter cover (under floating row cover)Spinach survives single-digit frosts under cover; companion cover crop fills empty space.

Sources: Penn State Extension, Season Extenders, UMN Extension, Tips for Garlic Planting Season, UMD Extension, Growing Garlic in a Home Garden.

For the full fall planting playbook see our fall companion planting guide.

Cover Crops as Fall and Winter Companions

Cover crops are the often-skipped fourth companion of the fall garden. They sit in the empty space between your last fall vegetable and next spring's planting, fixing nitrogen, building organic matter, suppressing winter weeds, and protecting soil from rain compaction. The three workhorses for home gardens:

1

Winter rye (Secale cereale)

The most cold-tolerant home cover crop. Drilled or broadcast in mid-September to mid-October, it grows through fall, overwinters, and resumes in spring. USDA NRCS Cereal Rye Fact Sheet (PDF) documents biomass production of 3 to 5 tons per acre in temperate zones.

2

Hairy vetch (Vicia villosa)

Legume that fixes 100 to 200 lb N per acre. USDA NRCS Hairy Vetch Fact Sheet (PDF). Best planted with winter rye as a rye-vetch mix; the rye gives the vetch a trellis.

3

Crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum)

Showy red-flowered legume; fixes 70 to 150 lb N per acre. USDA NRCS Crimson Clover Fact Sheet (PDF). Pollinators feed on the spring blossoms before you terminate the crop.

For the full menu and selection logic see USDA SARE's Managing Cover Crops Profitably and UMN Extension's cover crop selection guide for vegetable growers.

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The 3-Year Rotation Across All Three Seasons

Close-up of a gardener's hands holding a small chalkboard with a four-season planting plan drawn in a quadrant labelled spring, summer, fall, winter

Seasonal pairing is only half of the planning job. The other half is rotating plant families between years so soil diseases do not build up in the same bed. Penn State Extension recommends a 3-year minimum rotation. Combined with seasonal pairing, a 3-bed home garden produces around 9 distinct crops per year while never replanting the same family in the same spot for at least 3 years.

A working example over 3 years in the same 4 by 8 ft bed:

Year 1: Spring peas (Fabaceae) → summer tomato + basil (Solanaceae + Lamiaceae) → fall cover crop (winter rye + crimson clover).

Year 2: Spring lettuce + carrot (Asteraceae + Apiaceae) → summer pepper + eggplant (Solanaceae) → fall garlic (Alliaceae) overwintering.

Year 3: Spring broccoli + onion (Brassicaceae + Alliaceae) → summer cucumber + squash + nasturtium (Cucurbitaceae) → fall kale + scallion (Brassicaceae + Alliaceae).

By year 4 you cycle back to year 1, the soil never sees the same disease pulse twice in a row, and the bed produces continuously. Peer-reviewed work on legume rotation in PMC10245104 documents the nitrogen-cycling benefit: a pea or bean year leaves 40 to 60 lb N per acre behind for the next year's heavy feeder. Plan the rotation around that gift.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can you plant together in spring?

Peas with carrots, peas with spinach, lettuce with radish, broccoli with onions, cabbage with dill or chamomile, beets with bush beans, and spinach near strawberry. Spring pairings work in cool soil (40 to 60 F) and mature on overlapping 8 to 12 week schedules so the fast crops clear the bed before warm-season crops arrive. Use a soil thermometer to confirm 40 to 50 F at 4 inch depth before sowing.

What can you plant together in summer?

Tomato with basil and marigold, pepper with basil and parsley, Three Sisters (corn with pole beans and winter squash), cucumber with dill and nasturtium, squash with nasturtium and radish, eggplant with basil and thyme. All of these pairings rely on aromatic herbs masking the crop's volatile signature plus trap-crop flowers drawing pests to the perimeter.

What can you plant together in fall?

Cabbage with dill and chamomile, kale with scallion and leek, lettuce with radish, garlic with a winter cover crop, carrot with onion. Fall pairings are essentially spring pairings repeated in cooling soil rather than warming soil, plus overwintering alliums (garlic, shallot, leek) planted in October for next summer's harvest.

What is the difference between cool-season and warm-season companion planting?

Cool-season pairings (spring and fall) work in soil between 40 and 65 F and feature peas, lettuce, spinach, brassicas, beets, carrots, and radish. Warm-season pairings (summer) work in soil 65 F+ and feature tomato, pepper, eggplant, corn, beans, squash, and cucumber. Mixing the two seasons (planting tomatoes in 50 F soil or lettuce in 80 F soil) fails regardless of how good the companion pairing is on paper.

How do you rotate crops between seasons?

Rotate by plant family on a 3-year cycle. A working pattern: year 1 legume in spring then nightshade in summer then cover crop in fall; year 2 lettuce or carrot in spring then peppers in summer then garlic in fall; year 3 brassica plus allium in spring then cucurbit in summer then kale plus scallion in fall. The legume year fixes nitrogen for the heavy feeder year that follows. Penn State Extension and Cornell Cooperative Extension both recommend the 3-year minimum.

When should I plant garlic for next summer?

UMN Extension recommends planting garlic 6 to 8 weeks before the ground freezes, usually mid-October to early November in most of the US. Plant individual cloves 4 to 6 inches deep, pointed end up, in rows 8 inches apart. The garlic establishes root systems before dormancy and resumes growth in early spring, harvesting in July or August.

Do cover crops count as companion plants?

Yes, in the broadest sense. A fall-sown cover crop like winter rye plus hairy vetch shares the bed with overwintering garlic, feeds the soil with biomass and fixed nitrogen, suppresses weeds, and prevents winter soil erosion. The vetch follows the rye trellis the same way pole beans climb a corn stalk in the Three Sisters. USDA SARE's Managing Cover Crops Profitably documents the practice in detail.

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