GrowPerma Blog

How to Make Comfrey Fertiliser: The Permaculture Powerhouse

Written by Peter Vogel | Jun 8, 2026 4:00:00 AM

You spend $40 on a bottle of organic tomato fertilizer in May, another $40 in July, and a third in September. By season's end you have shipped almost half the value of your tomato harvest right back to the garden store. Or you plant two comfrey crowns next to the bed in spring, cut the leaves four times through the summer, and ferment them into a dark liquid that delivers the same potassium boost for free. This guide walks the recipe, the safety facts, and the comfrey biology that makes the swap work.

5-7%

Potassium content (dry weight)

Garden Organic HDRA

4-5

Cuts per season

Penn State Extension

6-10 ft

Taproot depth

Cornell Cooperative Extension

15-25 lb

Biomass per plant per year

Garden Organic

Quick takeaway

Plant two Bocking 14 comfrey crowns near every fruiting bed (tomato, pepper, squash, fruit tree). Cut leaves at 18 inches (45 cm) tall, 4 to 5 times per growing season. For comfrey tea: fill a 5-gallon (19 L) bucket half-full with chopped leaves, top with water, cover loosely, ferment 2 to 4 weeks, dilute 1:10 with fresh water, drench around fruiting plants every 2 weeks. For chop-and-drop: cut leaves and lay them whole on the soil under fruit trees. Comfrey contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids and should not be ingested, but is completely safe as fertilizer.

Why comfrey beats almost every other liquid fertilizer

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and especially the sterile cultivar Bocking 14 store an unusually high concentration of potassium in their leaves. The Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic) ran the original yield trials in the 1950s and documented leaf NPK at 1.8 to 3.5 percent nitrogen, 0.5 to 1.0 percent phosphorus, and 5 to 7 percent potassium on a dry-weight basis. That makes comfrey roughly equivalent to an organic 3-1-6 fertilizer, except you grow it instead of buying it.

Lawrence D. Hills, the gardener who selected and named Bocking 14 at the HDRA station in Bocking, Essex, demonstrated in trials throughout the 1960s and 1970s that tomato yields under comfrey liquid feed matched or exceeded yields under commercial NPK fertilizer. The same pattern holds for peppers, squash, cucumbers, fruit trees, and any other crop where potassium drives fruit development.

Bocking 14 vs common comfrey: why the cultivar matters

Common comfrey (Symphytum officinale) sets viable seed. Plant it once and it spreads. Forever. Bocking 14 (selected from Symphytum x uplandicum, a hybrid of S. officinale and S. asperum) is sterile. It only spreads by root division. You can plant it, harvest it for 20 years, and it stays in the spot you planted it.

Bocking 14 also produces more biomass per plant than common comfrey (about 30 percent more in HDRA trials) and slightly higher potassium content. The trade-off is that Bocking 14 only propagates from root cuttings. Order crowns from Coe's Comfrey, Garden Organic, or a local permaculture nursery rather than seed.

The deep taproot and how it works

Comfrey is one of the deepest-rooted herbaceous perennials commonly grown in temperate gardens. Cornell Cooperative Extension and Penn State Extension both document taproot depth of 6 to 10 ft (1.8 to 3 m) on established plants. That root depth is the entire mechanism behind comfrey's value as a fertilizer. The plant draws up minerals from subsoil layers that shallow-rooted vegetables and most lawn grasses cannot reach. The minerals get concentrated into the leaves you harvest at the surface.

The permaculture community calls this "dynamic accumulation." Soil scientists are more cautious about the framing because most plants will pull up subsoil minerals when available, but the practical result is the same: comfrey leaves carry far more potassium per ounce than almost any other plant tissue you can harvest in volume.

Why this works (the permaculture angle)

Conventional gardening pulls potassium out of the soil (in harvested fruit) and trucks new potassium in (in fertilizer bags). Permaculture closes the loop by growing the potassium source on site. Two Bocking 14 comfrey plants supply most of the potassium needs of a small backyard vegetable garden indefinitely. The system runs on sunlight, rainfall, and the comfrey's ability to mine the subsoil. There is no recurring cost.

Three ways to use comfrey as fertilizer

1

Chop-and-drop mulch (easiest)

Cut leaves at 18 inches (45 cm) with garden shears. Drop them whole on the soil around tomato, pepper, squash, fruit tree, or any potassium-hungry crop. Leaves wilt within 24 hours and decompose into the soil over 4 to 6 weeks. Replace as they thin out. No bucket, no smell, no work beyond the harvest.

2

Comfrey tea (most common)

Fill a 5-gallon (19 L) bucket half-full with chopped comfrey leaves. Top with water. Loose lid (gas escapes). Ferment 2 to 4 weeks until the liquid is dark brown and smells terrible. Strain. Dilute 1:10 with fresh water. Apply as a soil drench at the base of fruiting plants every 2 weeks during the growing season.

3

Concentrated comfrey black liquor (advanced)

Pack a barrel or large bucket with chopped comfrey leaves. No water added. Weight the top with a brick. Leaves ooze a black tar-like concentrate that collects in the bottom (drill a drain hole and place a smaller container beneath). Over 4 to 6 weeks you get half a quart (475 mL) of black liquor from a full barrel. Dilute 1:20 to 1:30 before use. Almost no smell. Stores for a year in a sealed jar.

The 5-gallon comfrey tea recipe (step by step)

The standard backyard recipe for comfrey tea, scalable up or down:

1

Cut roughly 5 lb (2.3 kg) of fresh comfrey leaves

That is about one full grocery bag of leaves from a mature Bocking 14 plant. Cut entire stems at the base; the plant regrows fast. Wear gloves because comfrey leaves are slightly bristly and can irritate skin on contact.

2

Chop the leaves coarsely with shears

Smaller pieces release nutrients faster. A 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.6 cm) chop is fine. Drop into a 5-gallon (19 L) plastic bucket.

3

Top with cool water

Fill the bucket to within 4 inches (10 cm) of the top. Tap water is fine. Rainwater is better.

4

Cover with a loose lid

Anaerobic fermentation produces gas. A sealed lid can split the bucket. A loose plastic lid or a piece of board across the top works.

5

Place in a sunny spot away from the house

Fermenting comfrey tea smells like a slaughterhouse drain. Site the bucket 50 ft (15 m) from any door or open window. A back corner of the garden works.

6

Ferment 2 to 4 weeks

Warm weather speeds the process. By the end of week 2 in July the liquid is dark brown and smells strong. By week 4 it is fully fermented. Stir once a week with a stick to aerate.

7

Strain and dilute

Strain through an old window screen or a piece of burlap. The dark liquid is the fertilizer. Dilute 1 part liquid to 10 parts fresh water before applying. The leftover sludge goes on the compost pile.

8

Apply as a soil drench

Pour the diluted tea around the base of fruiting plants. Two cups (475 mL) per tomato plant is plenty. Apply every 2 weeks from first fruit set through harvest. Avoid spraying the leaves directly because the residue can spot foliage.

Building a full closed-loop garden?

Pair this comfrey guide with our broader soil-building and fertilizer playbook to eliminate bought inputs entirely.

Read the Free Guide

Growing comfrey (it is easy)

Bocking 14 grows in USDA zones 4 to 9, in full sun to part shade, in almost any soil including heavy clay. The plant tolerates drought, flooding, and neglect. Plant root cuttings 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) deep in spring or fall, 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. A single crown becomes a 3 ft (90 cm) wide plant within two seasons.

Two cautions before planting. First, choose the location permanently. Comfrey is essentially impossible to remove once established because any root fragment left in the soil regrows. Garden Organic notes that an old comfrey patch will resprout from root fragments 18 inches (45 cm) deep. Second, do not plant inside a vegetable bed. Plant at the edge of the bed, around the drip line of a fruit tree, in a permanent perennial corner, or behind the compost pile.

First-year plants give one or two light cuts. From year 2 onward, you can cut a Bocking 14 plant 4 to 5 times per season starting when stems reach 18 inches (45 cm), with the final cut about 6 weeks before the first frost. Each cut produces 3 to 5 lb (1.4 to 2.3 kg) of fresh leaf material from a mature plant.

Comfrey as a compost activator and fruit tree mulch

Two more uses besides the tea recipe:

Compost activator: A 6-inch (15 cm) layer of fresh comfrey leaves in the middle of a cold compost pile raises the temperature noticeably within 48 hours. The high-nitrogen and high-potassium leaves accelerate the decomposition of slower brown material like leaves and straw. Add a layer of fresh comfrey to a stalled compost pile and watch it restart.

Fruit tree drip-line mulch: The classic permaculture pattern. Plant 2 to 4 comfrey crowns at the drip line of each fruit tree. Cut the leaves 3 to 4 times per season and leave them in place as mulch directly under the tree canopy. Each cut delivers a slow-release dose of potassium exactly where the tree needs it for fruit development. Penn State Extension reports mature comfrey produces 15 to 25 lb (6.8 to 11.3 kg) of biomass per plant per year, which covers most of the potassium budget for a backyard apple, plum, or peach tree.

The pyrrolizidine alkaloid question (and why fertilizer use is safe)

Do not ingest comfrey internally

Comfrey leaves and roots contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids (intermedine, lycopsamine, symphytine, and echimidine) that are hepatotoxic in concentrated doses. The FDA banned the sale of comfrey for oral consumption in dietary supplements in 2001 (FDA CFSAN advisory). Do not drink comfrey tea as a beverage, do not eat the leaves in salads, and keep livestock from grazing on comfrey patches. External skin contact and use as a garden fertilizer are not associated with documented harm.

The science is settled on the ingestion question. Multiple PubMed-indexed studies document veno-occlusive liver disease in humans and animals after sustained internal use of comfrey. The FDA position is clear: do not consume comfrey orally. That said, the same alkaloids do not transfer through the soil into vegetables grown nearby. Multiple soil chemistry studies have measured pyrrolizidine alkaloid uptake in lettuce and other vegetables grown on comfrey-fertilized soil and found no significant accumulation. Using comfrey as fertilizer is safe.

Older permaculture literature recommends comfrey as a medicinal tea for internal use. That recommendation is outdated. Use comfrey externally and as fertilizer only. The roots have higher alkaloid concentrations than leaves; avoid root preparations entirely.

Application schedule by crop

CropApplicationFrequency
Tomato2 cups diluted tea per plant OR 4 leaves chop-and-dropEvery 2 weeks from first flower through harvest
Pepper, eggplant1 cup diluted tea per plant OR 2 leaves chop-and-dropEvery 2 to 3 weeks
Squash, cucumber2 cups diluted tea per plant OR 4 leavesEvery 2 weeks
Fruit trees (mature)3 to 5 gallons diluted tea OR 15 to 25 lb fresh leaves as mulchMonthly through growing season
Berries (blueberry, raspberry)2 cups diluted tea per plantEvery 3 weeks during fruiting
Leafy greens, brassicasSkip comfrey, use higher-N source like nettle teaNot recommended (too K-heavy)

Sources: Garden Organic HDRA trials, Penn State Extension home vegetable guide, Rodale Institute.

Common mistakes

  1. Planting comfrey inside a vegetable bed. You will never get it out. Plant at the edge or in a dedicated comfrey row.
  2. Buying common comfrey seed. It self-seeds aggressively. Pay extra for Bocking 14 root cuttings instead.
  3. Sealing the fermentation bucket. Pressure builds and the bucket can crack. Loose lid only.
  4. Using undiluted comfrey tea. Strong tea burns plant roots. Always dilute 1:10 minimum.
  5. Drinking comfrey tea. Pyrrolizidine alkaloids damage the liver. The "tea" in fertilizer recipes is for the garden, never the teapot.

Where comfrey fits in a permaculture system

Comfrey is one of the highest-leverage perennials you can plant in a backyard. Two Bocking 14 crowns supply most of the potassium budget for a small vegetable garden. Three or four crowns supply enough fertilizer for an orchard. The plant pollinates itself, controls its own pests, lives 20+ years, and asks for no inputs after the initial root cutting. For broader context, read our guides on 12 permaculture principles explained with garden examples and building living soil for a thriving garden.

Build a closed-loop fertilizer system

Comfrey is the keystone. Our free guide adds nettle tea, worm castings, compost tea, and the rotation that pays back every input you cut.

Start with the Free Guide

Frequently asked questions

What is comfrey fertilizer?

Comfrey fertilizer is a homemade liquid or solid plant feed produced from the leaves of comfrey (Symphytum officinale) or its sterile cultivar Bocking 14. The leaves contain 5 to 7 percent potassium on a dry-weight basis, making the fertilizer especially valuable for fruiting crops like tomatoes, peppers, squash, and fruit trees. The two main preparation methods are fermented liquid tea (diluted 1:10 before use) and direct chop-and-drop mulch.

How do you make comfrey tea fertilizer?

Fill a 5-gallon (19 L) bucket half-full with chopped fresh comfrey leaves, top with water, cover loosely, and ferment 2 to 4 weeks in a sunny spot away from the house (it smells terrible). Strain the dark liquid, dilute 1:10 with fresh water, and apply as a soil drench around fruiting plants every 2 weeks during the growing season. Two cups of diluted tea per tomato plant is the standard rate.

Is comfrey really toxic?

Comfrey leaves and roots contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids that are hepatotoxic when ingested in concentrated doses. The FDA banned comfrey for oral use in dietary supplements in 2001. Do not drink comfrey tea, eat the leaves, or let livestock graze on it. External skin contact and use as a garden fertilizer are not associated with documented harm. Pyrrolizidine alkaloids do not transfer through soil into vegetables grown nearby per soil chemistry studies.

Can you drink comfrey tea?

No. The pyrrolizidine alkaloids in comfrey (intermedine, lycopsamine, symphytine, echimidine) cause veno-occlusive liver damage in humans with sustained oral use. The FDA explicitly bans comfrey for oral consumption. The phrase "comfrey tea" in garden recipes refers to fermented liquid fertilizer for the garden, not a beverage.

How do you use comfrey leaves?

Three garden uses: (1) chop-and-drop fresh leaves as mulch around fruiting plants and fruit trees, (2) ferment leaves with water to make liquid fertilizer (dilute 1:10 before applying), (3) layer fresh leaves into a stalled compost pile to restart decomposition. Avoid internal use; use externally only.

What is Bocking 14 comfrey?

Bocking 14 is a sterile cultivar of comfrey selected by Lawrence D. Hills at the Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic) in Bocking, Essex, UK in the 1950s. It produces about 30 percent more biomass per plant than common comfrey, slightly higher potassium content, and does not self-seed. Bocking 14 only propagates from root cuttings. Order from a permaculture nursery or comfrey specialist supplier.

How often should I apply comfrey fertilizer?

Every 2 weeks during the growing season for fruiting vegetables (tomato, pepper, squash, cucumber, eggplant). Monthly for fruit trees during the growing season. Skip comfrey on leafy greens and brassicas because they need more nitrogen relative to potassium; use nettle tea or a balanced fish emulsion instead.

Where can I buy comfrey plants?

Order Bocking 14 root cuttings from Coe's Comfrey, Strictly Medicinal Seeds, Crimson Sage Nursery, Edible Acres, or your local permaculture nursery. Avoid generic comfrey seed online because most commercial seed is common comfrey that self-seeds aggressively. Bocking 14 cuttings typically run $5 to $10 each and produce a full plant within two seasons.

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